To alter slightly, this one is not a technical R&D world related post, but my photograpjy hobby related one. Hope you don’t mind? Will followup with pictures. :)

My is on its way to me. I’m so excited about it that I started to learn more about it before I actually got it.

It took me a while to read all the articles in the Internet about the camera until I decided to order one and took some notes with all the useful pieces of information that I found in the Internet with references for myself.

But I think that it would be a good idea to share this list with you in random order as I noted (some notes may repeat). I hope you can find something new and useful there for you too.

1. In good lighting and with the focusing point made the largest, this camera is a focusing speed demon and perhaps right up there with Olympus’s FAST AF system. Make it smaller, and you have something on par with Canon’s EOS M camera.

And once again, we really need to recommend that you don’t focus and recompose with this camera. Sure it might be easier, but you’re just throwing off the focusing plane.
www.thephoblographer.com/2013/03/25/using-the-fujifilm-x1…

2. The sweet spot with the X100s is to shoot on (L)100 ISO, at 1/1000th of a sec at f/2 with the built-in 3-stop ND filter engaged. That will underexpose full daylight. You can then overpower the sun with a small flash and shoot wide open in the process for gorgeous backgrounds at f/2
strobist.blogspot.co.il/2013/05/leaf-shutter-nd-flash-fuj…

3. lose the slip-on lens cap and get a hood and a 49mm skylight filter. And not a crap filter, either, as the aspherical 23mm/2 (35mm/2 equiv.) lens deserves good glass in front. Put the lens cap in a drawer and go filter/hood full-time.
strobist.blogspot.fr/2013/03/in-depth-new-fujifilm-x100s….

4. I normally configure my custom settings for +1 Color Boost and +1 Sharpness.

Function Button – You can assign a variety of functions to the function button (FN) for quick access. Things like ISO, ND Filter, Film Simulation etc. During the day, I set mine to turn off/on the ND filter. At night, or if I’m in a situation where I need ISO control, I’ll set it to ISO.
www.hossedia.com/reviews/fuji-x100s-review/

5. Great review and reason why x100s that convinced me
www.mitchellkphotos.com/blog/2013/10/15/istanbul-and-my-r…

6. Fujix x100s collection of all materials found in the net 

7. If you use mostly the opti­cal finder, turn the “OVF power save mode” on. The display’s info will be dimmed a bit, and the live his­togram is no longer avail­able, but it will greatly extend the bat­tery life. I strongly rec­om­mend read­ing pages 18, 36, 41, 47, and 91 from the Camera’s Instruc­tion Man­ual.
www.eduardoangel.com/2013/11/12/fuji-x100s-hands-on-review/

8. B&W shooting tips:
My favorite B&W setting on the X100S for most situations are:

• Film simulation: B-R (B&W Red Filter)
• Sharpness: +1
• Highlight Tone: 0
• Shadow Tone: +1
• Noise Reduction: -2

And in case you don’t have a lot of experience with B&W photography the Fuji X cameras with EVF or LCD will take you by the hand and guide you to your first successful exposures. When you switch your JPG to B&W you will see a B&W image in the EVF / LCD preview. Now use the exposure compensation dial (in Aperture priority mode) to increase or decrease the exposure and get a more predominant black or white look.

Still not sure if you want to deprive your exposures of the color for good? No problem! Set the Fuji X100S to shoot JPG + RAW and the RAW file will contain all of the color information just in case you change your mind later. The EVF will still show the B&W preview.

So, are you ready to give it a try? Then why not just save the B&W settings as one of your custom settings in your X100S for those occasions when you feel like shooting Monochrome :)
fujixfiles.blogspot.co.il/2013/10/the-Fuji-X100S-made-me-…

9. If maximum operating speed is important to you, then switch off all energy saving- and switch on all performance improving features. What also helps is when you use the fastest UHS-I SDHC cards. But with all energy saving turned off, I highly recommend that you buy at least one, or better yet, two spare batteries for your X100S.

The lens picks up some flare and this is identical to the lens on the original X100. Hence, I would buy the lens hood with adapter for two reasons:
A. To control flare.
B. To have a filter thread for the use of filter or simply to plug in a standard lens cap (49mm filter and lens cap for the adapter without the lens hood and a 52mm lens cap for use with the lens hood attached - you can see this on the second photo from the top). And do get the lens caps with the pinch release in the middle of the cap!

The X100S has turned into my every day take along camera. It is my street, portrait and city/landscape tool. And, I use it 95% of the time as a B&W camera! I set the camera to record JPG + RAW and set the JPG to be captured in BW + Red Filter. This way the EVF and the review image in the EVF & OVF will show a B&W image which is closest to the way I would process it. The RAW file still contains the color information and will be rendered as a color image in my LightRoom collection, next to the B&W JPG image.

I find that seeing a scene in B&W is less distracting and lets me focus more intensely on the subject and situation of the scene.

These are my preferred every day settings when I’m out with the X100S:

• Fn = ND Filter (heavily used in bright conditions to overcome the f2 & 1/1000s limit)
• RAW + JPG
• ISO: Auto 6400 at 1/100s (I’d rather take a bit more noise than motion blur)
• Film simulation: B-R (B&W Red Filter)
• Sharpness: +1
• Highlight Tone: 0
• Shadow Tone: +1
• Noise Reduction: -2
• MF Assist: Max
• High Performance Mode: On
• Power Saving: Off
• Review Time: 0.5 S

fujixfiles.blogspot.co.il/2013/07/Fuji-X100S-Review-is-it…

10. Focusing tips relevant for x100s as well 
www.fujixfiles.blogspot.co.il/2012/08/fuji-x-pro-1-af-aut…

11. Optical viewfinder prallax explained in details 
theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer…

12.  When you are shooting objects that quickly move towards the camera, better use the famous “Autofocus Trick”, also known as “shutter mash technique”: Set the camera to AF-S or AF-C (use AF-S if you want to assign a particular AF field, use AF-C if you are okay with the center spot or area) and press the shutter all the way through in one quick, swift motion (no half-pressing!) while keeping the AF field trained over the area of your subject that you want to be in focus. Since the X100S operates with Autofocus Priority, it won’t take the shot until it has actually locked focus (or until it gave up, in which case the shot will probably be wasted).

Shortcuts:

• Press and hold the Q button for a few seconds to clearly increase the brightness of the LCD. This can be quite helpful when operating the camera in bright light, like on a sunny day.
• Press and hold the MENU/OK button down to lock or unlock the arrow keys and the Q button.
• A long press of the Fn button will bring up the Fn button’s configuration menu, where you can assign one of several functions. I typically assign ISO to this button, because I like to be able to quickly change my Auto-ISO configuration (minimum shutter speed). Another popular option for this button is enabling the camera’s built-in ND filter.
• Press and hold DISP/BACK button to activate (or deactivate) the camera’s Silent Mode. When this mode is turned on, the X100S functions quietly and inconspicuously. It won’t make any artificial noises and it abstains from using both the flash and the AF-assist lamp.
• Pressing the DISP/BACK button while selecting an AF field in AF-S Area mode will immediately select the central AF field.
• Press DISP/BACK in shooting or playback mode to change the view of the currently active display. This means that in order to change the view of either the OVF, the EVF or the LCD, either the OVF, EVF or LCD must be active when you press the button. You can select the display you want to change with the VIEW MODE button. Alternatively, use the eye-sensor to activate a display by looking through it, then change its view with the DISP/BACK button. The X100S can’t read your mind, you need to tell it which display’s view you want to change.
• Finally, to check (or upgrade) the firmware version of the camera, press and hold the DISP/BACK button while switching on the camera.
• In manual focus mode, press the AE-L/AF-L button to initiate an autofocus run.
• Also in manual focus mode, press and hold the command dial to cycle through the camera’s different MF aids: standard, digital split image and focus peaking.
• Press (but do not hold) the command dial to enlarge the current image to inspect its sharpness. This works in both MF and AF modes.
• Rather than selecting a function in the shooting menu by pressing the OK button, you can press the shutter button halfway down. Pressing the shutter button halfway down while in playback mode switches the camera directly into shooting mode. You can wake the camera by pressing the shutter button halfway down as well.
• Double-tap the macro button to switch between normal and macro modes.

www.fujirumors.com/using-the-x100s/

13. List of Fuji x!00s useful accessories

14. JJC hood and B+W Pro filter: Protection. spend a few dollars, put these on and keep them there. I don’t use a cap on this camera (they come off and I lose them). But don’t use a cheap filter. B + W are the best. German made, pure optics. Whats the point of having a camera with the best sensor and glass, if you stick cheap distorted junk in front of it. $50 won’t break the bank! The hood stops glare and adds more protection. You can spend $$ for the fuji one, or $ for a nasty el cheapo. Spend $ and get the JJC. as good as the real thing, but not flimsy.

ed-jones.squarespace.com/blog/2013/11/16/the-cliche-whats…

More Updates:

15. Auto-ISO settings discussion - I’m finding ISO 6400 is just fine, in fact amazing on this camera so I ‘ve set my minimum speed at 1/125.

16. In video shooting if you are stuggling with automatic focus, set aperture and shutter to Automatic mode and choose AF-C mode to get constant continues focus.

17. Unless you are doing macro work with f2 then it works perfectly fine in most cases. The focal length of this lens gives you a larger depth of field anyway. Anything farther away than about 5 feet and at any aperture above 2.8 should be just fine for focus and recompose.

Hope you liked it.
If you have more tips & tricks to add to the list, please leave in comments.